Lucera, an Arabic town of the Middle Age

Today I am going to narrate Lucera, a city in the province of Foggia.

Lucera, located on three hills, has always played a strategic role of door to the Tavoliere delle Puglie.

Archaeological excavations proved the fact that the area was inhabited since the 3^rd millennium BC.

However, Lucera became very important under the Roman rule.

In 321 BC,  the Roman army while moving to Lucera to assist their allies, walked into an ambush and were defeated by the Samnites at the battle of Caudine Forks.

However, it is in the middle age that Lucera turns into something unique in the history of Europe: an Arabic city.

How did it happen?

Frederick II the Swabian, in order to tackle the Arabic uprisings in Sicily, transferred many of them to Lugêrah (as it was pronounced in Arabic).

The Swabian guaranteed them freedom of religion.

Luceria Saracinorum became a prosperous town.

Vito Salierno, who wrote I Musulmani in Puglia e Basilicata (ed. Lacaita, 2000), states that the Arabics living in Lucera were around 40.000.

The Arabics were great artisans. 

They used to work leather and Arabic-Sicilian ceramic. 

Additionally, they grew olive trees, durum wheat, barley, legumes and grapes. Muslims also kept bees for honey.

The Arabics became the most faithful fighters under the Swabians.

I am so fascinated by this story that once in Lucera, I investigate about the remains of the Arabic age. 

A gentle lady, who works for the tourist information helped me a lot on this.

I keep walking, following the indications.

First of all, I see the immense Swabian-Angevin fortress.

Inside, there is a small Arabic castle where Frederick II used to rest, surrounded by his court.

After having left the fortress, I head to what was supposed to be the Harem of Luceria Saracinorum.

Nowadays, it is a church.

The Mosque was located where now the cathedral is. 

The Angevins destroyed it.

Then, I see two Arabic towers, incorporated by newest buildings.

While quickly moving to the Archaeological Museum, I realize that many people in Lucera have Arabic features.

The Museum is rich of Daunian and Roman objects.

However, I am there mainly to view the exhibition related to the Arabic age.

When, I see them, I feel all the beauty and the richness of this land, where so many civilizations have left important proofs of themselves.

I begin talking with an enchanted visitor.“you know, once I found in Italy a golden ring and small statue” he confides to me. “I can not describe you what I felt when I found them” he adds.

He is an admirer of the Arabic art.

I get out the Museum with great thoughts.

I stop by a restaurant for a quick lunch. So, I decide to order a bottle of local Cacc’e Mmitte di Lucera.

A great red wine, with intense flavors.

This wine is made from Uva di Troia grape (35-60%), with the addition of Montepulciano, Sangiovese and Malvasia Nera, which collectively make up between 25-35% of the blend.

In terms of food, I have a wide range of healthy dishes, typical of the peasant cuisine.

Therefore, I go for cikatielle k’a rukele e k’i fenucchjette (homemade pasta with few fresh tomatoes, local rocket and a pinch of aromatic herb name finocchietto.

I finish this post not before having mentioned an immense Italian actor, Massimo Troisi.

He has shot the movie Le vie del Signore sono finite here in Lucera.







Ciao Massimo

R.I.P